Brewed With Taste
It takes about 20 minutes to drive from Liuku Town in Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province, to the Nujiang Green Spice Industrial Park on a road along the Nujiang River. Located at the foot of the Gaoligong Mountains, the west bank of the Nujiang River is home to the largest specialty coffee-growing area in China.
At Yunka, a local coffee processor located at the park, General Manager Zhao Qian and his team are elated after winning an exceptional quality award for their coffee beans at the 2024 Kunshan International Fair for Coffee Industry.
The Nujiang region benefits from a geography highly conducive to cultivating premium-quality coffee with a distinct and rich flavour. Spanning over 5,000 mu (333 hectares), the region cultivates varieties such as Typica, Bourbon and Geisha, at altitudes ranging from 1,000 to 1,500 metres. Zhao explained that optimal growth conditions for coffee trees include fertile soil rich in limestone, granite or basalt, a significant temperature difference between day and night, and well-defined dry and wet seasons. These unique environmental factors make the area a paradise for coffee cultivation.
A rapidly expanding market
Years ago, Zhao was just a coffee enthusiast. An unexpected opportunity led him to discover the vast potential of China’s coffee market, prompting him to return to Nujiang - his grandfather’s birthplace. He began by managing coffee plantations, learning the characteristics of different varieties, and mastering roasting techniques.
“Coffee has become a way of life, especially among young people,” Zhao said. His return coincided with China’s domestic coffee boom. In 2024, the size of China’s coffee industry reached 313.3 billion yuan ($42.9 billion), with the annual per capita consumption rising from 9 to 22 cups since 2016. Coffee is now one of the fastest-growing consumer sectors in the country.
To meet growing domestic demand, Zhao helped local farmers to replace ageing coffee tree varieties, raising the value of their beans to as much as 800 yuan per kilogram. He also trained two certified Q Graders, experts in coffee quality evaluation certified by the Specialty Coffee Association, within his company.
In addition, Zhao established his own coffee brand, Secret Canyon. What once operated only as an outsourcing and labelling facility has now evolved into the most sophisticated coffee production line in west Yunnan. “Our coffee beans, freeze-dried coffee, concentrate and capsules all cater to strong domestic demand,” he said. Yunnan has developed a complete industrial chain, with the coffee industry playing a significant role in improving local livelihoods.
Zhao noted that in the past five years, many domestic coffee brands like Secret Canyon have emerged across China. Despite entering the market later than foreign competitors, they’ve grown rapidly by offering affordable, flavourful and innovative products, becoming increasingly popular nationwide. “The coffee market in China is expected to continue expanding quickly, and innovation will be the key driving force behind this growth,” he said.
From Nujiang to Shanghai
The growing success of Nujiang coffee stems not only from its outstanding quality, but also from targeted support from Shanghai.
Nujiang coffee is prized for its high levels of protein, crude fibre, fat and natural sugars, while retaining relatively low caffeine content. Another key to its quality lies in locking its freshness immediately after harvest.
A notable example is the Lishu Coffee Plantation in Nujiang, which produces around 1,500 tonnes of coffee beans annually. To convert these fresh beans into economic opportunity, the Pudong District of Shanghai - paired with Nujiang under a regional support programme - implemented locally adapted solutions. Shanghai Minlong Industrial Co. invested in a processing and packaging facility in Nujiang, creating a brand now sold across China. They work closely with local farmers to transform freshly harvested beans into premium coffee for sale in Shanghai, producing over 20 types of coffee products.
With Pudong’s assistance, the two regions have developed beans with floral, tangy and nutty aromas, and have also introduced innovative products such as cold brew coffee and suspended filter coffee pouches.
Today, thanks to joint efforts between Pudong and Nujiang enterprises, the Lishu Coffee Plantation generates an annual turnover of 20 million yuan ($2.7 million) and creates over 12,000 jobs. The economic impact is obvious. “I used to grow 10 mu (0.67 hectares) of corn and earned over 8,000 yuan ($1,094) a year,” said local farmer Qiao Yinghua. “Now, coffee fetches me up to 60,000 yuan ($8,205) in good years, and at least 30,000 yuan ($4,102.50) in bad years. It’s far more profitable than corn.”
“Our next step is to turn the plantation into a pilot site for developing a mid-mountain coffee economy in the Gaoligong Mountains,” says Niu Ben, manager of the Lishu Coffee Plantation. “This will allow us to connect more effectively with the Shanghai market, boost profits, and create even more jobs.”
